The Bazaar

One of my favorite things about spring here is walking everywhere, and one of my favorite things about walking is walking to the bazaar. It’s the only way to shop, in my opinion. I have certain vendors that I go to for each thing and they treat me well. When I ask for a kilo of apples, or half a kilo of strawberries, she goes through and picks each one. So if an apple has a bruise, or if a strawberry looks over-ripe, she passes it over. It’s awesome.

It’s also nice to be able to get exactly the right amount of whatever I need. If I need 2 eggs for a certain recipe, I just order 2 eggs. I go to my favorite grain vendor and get 300 grams of white beans for chili, or get 200 grams of gouda from the cheese lady, as I affectionately call her. Then across the street to the meat bazaar, which is fortunately inside (I don’t think I could ever bring myself to buy meat from an outside vendor!), to buy a chicken. I tell them about how big I need it and they go and find one just the right size. If you know how much I hate to waste things, particularly food, you’ll understand why I love this so much!

All in all, it’s just a great experience. I get to practice my somewhat limited Russian, they get to practice their even more limited English, and it’s just a good time all around. I tried to post some pictures but it's not working out. Cross your fingers and check back later.

By the way, here’s a fun little bit of our ESI Spring retreat two weekends ago. I hope you find these even half as amusing as we did.

Things You Would Never Hear at a Resort in America:

• Oh look, we have a trash can. That's exciting!
• They have a pool? What color is it?
• Do you think the guard will let us out?
• Did anyone notice if we have lights in our living room?
• Does the bathroom have toilet paper?
• Just so you guys know, the water is still on (said at 12:30 am).
• The water here is not brown, not black, but actually purple.

And some fun things from a game of Catchphrase:

• “It’s on the ground in the morning.” “Trash!” (actual answer: dew)
• “This is a common cheese” “Gouda” (actual answer: chedder, something that doesn’t exist in K-stan)

Easter in Central Asia

(Sorry this Easter entry is so late... internet troubles)

Apparently Easter in this part of the world starts the night before. Since Cat and I are fortunate enough to live just across the street from the Russian Orthodox church, most of the ESI teachers came over before the buses stopped running to hang out with us until the midnight service.

It started, as all evenings should, with us watching an Audrey Hepburn movie (Sabrina) badly dubbed in Russian. Then, around 11:30 the girls all doffed our head coverings and we walked down to the church. We could hear the music from our apartment. It was beautiful, alternating between the choir and the priests chanting. There were so many people there that not even half could fit inside the church. So they had set up cameras and microphones and projected everything on the outside wall. At midnight the bells rang and most of the crowd lit small candles they had brought with them. Then the priests came out carrying several things (I believe they were the icons of Jesus and the cross) and the crowd followed them as they circled the church once, chanting all the way. As limited as my Russian is, I only caught a few key words, but I trust I got the general idea. We left soon after, but apparently their Easter service began after that and continued until six in the morning. I must say, I’m glad I’m a Protestant and our service wasn’t until 10 am!

The next morning we had our Easter service, which was interesting, involving a pretty elaborate skit in Russian that I only partially understood. But I definitely enjoyed watching Kostya play the devil. After church there was a tea and everyone was milling around talking and wishing each other happy Easter in Russian. I actually really like the way they do it. They say , which means Christ is risen!, and the response is , which means He is risen in you. I really like that, though I could never quite remember the response on the spot. The solution to this, of course is to always be the one who says it first! It almost felt like a race sometimes.

The next day all our Russian students were wishing us a happy Easter and bringing us Easter bread and cards. The thing is, neither Cat or I really liked the bread, and so now we have three just sitting on our counter until we finally decide to just throw them away. Oh well. All in all, it was a fun and different way to celebrate the holiday. Good times.

Kazakh New Year

I love a country where you can celebrate the New Year three or four times a year. Thursday was the Kazakh New Year, and it was awesome. We met three of our students and they took us downtown where all the cool stuff was happening. They had blocked off the main road downtown so that people could walk there, and there were so many cool things going on. Apparently they have a competition every year to see who can build the best yurta. Yurtas are the traditional dwellings of the Kazakhs, who were nomads. So there were dozens of full-sized yurtas all the way down the street, each one erected by a different company or organization. Outside of one they were actually having a traditional Kazakh wedding ceremony, complete with dancers and musicians playing the dumbra (the national instrument). In front of the Abzal (one of the major stores downtown) they had a stage set up and there was a full Kazakh orchestra, playing all the traditional instruments. It was amazing. Cat got videos of it all.

It was just a big street carnival. Old men were wandering around in their traditional dress, and people were selling shashlik, samsa, and plof (local dishes) on the streets. Cat and I kept trying to get to see the inside of one of the yurtas, but they weren’t letting the white people in. But finally one of them figured out that we were Americans, which apparently made all the difference. They invited us in, but Mary and Taya, both Russians, had to wait outside. It was so cool! They had beautiful Persian looking rugs all over the floor and hanging from the walls, and Kazakh artifacts everywhere. There were three tables (the low kind that you kneel around) and they invited us to sit down and eat! We couldn’t stay too long, since the girls were waiting for us outside, but we had a few bites of the dish they put in front of us, and we both tried the kumis (mare’s milk) which, by the way, is absolutely disgusting. It tastes like sour milk mixed with vinegar.

That night we went to Marzhan’s apartment for dinner. She’s the only Kazakh English teacher at ASSOL, and she invited us and two other teachers with their husbands. It was the most fun evening I’ve had in a while. She made us Bes Par Mak, the national dish, which included horsemeat. It actually tasted good, but there was more of a mental block than I had expected going in. I took about three bites and then focused on the beef, noodles, and potatoes. Then we just sat around talking for hours. The conversation alternated between English, with Mila and Yana translating for their husbands, Russian, with them translating (somewhat) for us, and Cat and I trying to have a conversation with Vitaly, which is always hysterical. He speaks maybe as much English as I speak Russian (not much), but he is so expressive that we can usually figure it out. It was such a fun night.

Happy New Year!!!
С новым годом!!!

My Birthday in Central Asia

I’m beginning to wish all my birthdays could be in Central Asia. Today was the best day! It started out with an unusual amount of communication from back home. I got a fabulously long email from Kate, a phone call from Jamie B., and a card from my mother, all before noon!

This afternoon when I arrived at Alter for my first class Andrew was waiting outside to keep me from walking in too soon and spoiling the surprise. When I finally did go into the classroom, five of my girl students sang Happy Birthday to me. Behind them they had pushed four desks together to make a table with chairs all around. There were mugs enough for everyone and we had coffee (the first time I ever liked coffee- look at me, I’m growing) and they had set out two little cakes. We sat around and talked for the first half-hour of class. They asked me to tell about my best birthday (besides this one, of course) and then they went around the class and each one offered a blessing for me.

Since class was shorter than usual because of the party I didn’t do the song cloze I had intended to do. For those who don’t know, a song cloze is where I give them the lyrics with blanks where the vocabulary words are and they have to listen to the song and fill them in. Instead I just told them so they could write them in, explaining words as we went. Then we discussed what the song meant and watched that scene. It was really cozy and relaxed, sitting around the table and drinking coffee. It obviously can’t happen often, but it was great for a change of pace.

When Sascha and Larissa picked me up from Alter, Sascha gave me a bunch of red carnations, and when we got back to ASSOL, Larissa called me into the front office. There, she and the Tatianas had two more bouquets for me, and a present. They sang Happy Birthday for me, though Larissa subsided into “da da da’s” after the first line. Then I went upstairs and Cat’s 4 o’clock class had a gift for me!

All in all, I came out of today with three bouquets of flowers (roses, chrysanthemums, and carnations), two boxes of chocolate, two cakes, a wall clock, a watch, a new wallet with 100 tenge inside, a plastic cat-shaped piggy bank, and a felt potted flower that dances and sings “You Are My Sunshine.” My favorite was the watch. My watch broke and so lately I’ve had to borrow a student’s cell phone every class to keep an eye on the time. So my 6 o’clock advanced class tonight gave me a watch! Between that and the beautiful clock Larissa gave me, I’m all set.

After classes tonight the whole ESI team went out for dinner, which was great fun. About halfway through (fortunately after our food had arrived) the electricity went out! The waitress brought each table a candle, and we actually liked it better that way! We bonded with the Kazakhs at the next table over shadow puppets on the wall. They got a kick out of my dog impression. After about 10-15 minutes it came back on, though.

The thing is, it’s not over yet. Mary’s birthday is tomorrow, so on Friday we’re having a joint birthday party. That’s when we’ll exchange gifts, and the girls are making a cake. And then on Saturday Cat and I are having a bunch of our girl students over to watch a movie. I’m really looking forward to it.

I think I can safely say that this is one of the best birthdays I’ve ever had. I’m so happy.

Molly's Book Club

For the past few weeks, the sermons at church have been on relationships, primarily marriage, but also touching on parent-child and other relationships. This week and next week’s sermons are on the text Ephesians 5:33, which tells husbands to love their wives and wives to respect their husbands. The entire service yesterday, Michelle and I were convinced that what he was saying was taken from two books that we’ve read, “For Women Only” and “For Men Only.” Since the sermon reminded me of them, I thought I’d take the opportunity to tell everyone back home about them.

I discovered these books at training in July. Michelle brought them and was passing them around to everyone. The first book, “For Women Only” is by Shaunti Feldhahn. She began interviewing men as research for a novel she was writing, but the things she discovered were so amazing to her that she expanded her research methods and eventually wrote this book with her findings. She created a survey with the help of a US Census Department survey writer. They surveyed thousands of men of every age, race, religion, marital status, and economic status. She also conducted personal interviews with 400 men. The book explores 7 or 8 basic truths that she found most men had in common, but of which most women are completely clueless.

It was eye opening, to say the least. Several different guys at training read the book and they all commented on how accurate it was. Some even said that it explained things that they themselves were unable to put into words. Even though I am not married, I was able to apply most of it to my relationships with other men in my life, like my father and my male friends. After reading it, I began to see a lot of things in a different light, including some mistakes that I had unwittingly made.

A few years after “For Women Only” was published, the author’s husband, Jeff, decided to write the companion book, “For Men Only.” He used the same research techniques as his wife, this time focusing on women. It is incredible. There was one paragraph that said, in so many words, exactly what I had often wished I could tell guys. It is so insightful.

I really think that everyone should read these books. Those of you who have been married for many years may already know much of what is in them, but it would still be worth checking out. And even single people could benefit from reading them. Because it’s really just about men and women, period.

Okay, that’s my shameless plug. Read them. They’re awesome.

The Second Flood (well, actually it's our third)

Well, I can check off one more experience they warned us about at training. Cat and I woke up this morning at 7:37 to a very angry neighbor pounding on our door. Our kitchen was flooding and the water had made its way into the apartment below us. A bit of background for those who don’t know: the cold water turns off every night at 11 and doesn’t come on again until 6 AM. Knowing this, we don’t usually even try the faucet at night, or we immediately turn it off again when no water comes out. But it only takes one time forgetting!

Back to the angry neighbor. He was just screaming at us in Russian, which we might have understood more of if we weren’t still half asleep and feeling seriously disoriented. But we got all our towels, the sheets from our beds, and the tubs we wash clothes in and started mopping it all up. It was clearly not good enough for him, though. He just kept making wringing motions and yelling the Russian word for ‘fast’. After a little while of this we got fed up and just kicked him out.

About 10 minutes later Giyanna, the maintenance man from ASSOL, showed up to check it out and help us. I had just let him in and the doors were still unlocked and our pissed off neighbor stormed back in. He just stood for a minute in our hallway watching us work and then starts shouting ‘fast’ at us again. When Cat stood up to try to talk to him he got even more worked up and started yelling “Work, work! Fast! Work!” (all in Russian, of course). We kept saying “We know, we work. Yes. Fast” but he was really starting to piss us off. Finally I just opened the door and gestured for him to leave, but he wouldn’t budge. I just kept telling him to get out. In the meantime, I had been using our handheld broom and dustbin to scoop up the lake in our kitchen. As I was trying to make him leave I gestured with my left hand and accidentally flung some water from the broom in his face! I can’t even describe the look of death he gave me, but I didn’t know how to explain that it was an accident. Something tells me it wouldn’t have made much of a difference at that moment anyway, but still.

So he finally left and we finished cleaning it all up. Alevtina is going down to check out the damage in the apartment and we have to figure out how to pay for it. And I’m thinking I’m going to have one of the English teachers write a note for me in Russian, apologizing and explaining that it was an accident, for what it’s worth. This is just the biggest pain ever. But it sure makes an effective wake-up call!

Excerpts of Life in Kazakhstan

I don’t have anything in particular to write about, so this entry is just going to be a bunch of random anecdotes and incidents that I think are worth sharing. I realize that much of the humor is lost in the writing, but I’ll do my best.

• I love the occasional hilarity that springs from our pastor, who is from Americus, Georgia, and Victor, his translator. But the best incident by far was the day that Scott got so caught up in his topic that he let a “fixin’ to” slip out. All the Americans were cracking up as Scott quickly rephrased. Victor’s face was priceless.
• Mary, Michelle, and I are all teaching our units on the different regions right now, and Mary had her students read their reports to the class. One boy wrote about Pennsylvania. The first half was fine, until he started talking about how Pennsylvania is famous because that’s where Dracula was from.
• It’s finally getting cold here! All last week it was hovering around 0° Fahrenheit, but this week it’s gotten even colder. Last night it was -10°, with the wind chill taking it down at least another 10°. The wind here is fit to take your skin off- it’s unbelievable. Michelle and I had a snowball fight with some students Friday night (only the third since we’ve been here) and I thought my fingers were going to fall off by the time we went inside. It was great.
• My random Russian vocabulary of the week: hedgehog- еж, crutch- гипс, and barrel-бочка.… useful, huh?

And last but certainly not least…..

Top Ten Reasons I Know I’ve Been Living in Kazakhstan Too Long:

#10 I automatically look for a light switch outside the bathroom door.
#9 I carry tissues and hand sanitizer with me everywhere ‘just in case’
#8 When I hear twenty car horns blaring my first thought isn’t ‘accident’ but ‘wedding’
#7 I’ve begun to say ‘oy’ instead of ‘oh’
#6 I get Russian rap songs stuck in my head
#5 My “soviet game face” (aka. The blank, I-could-care-less stare everyone adopts in public) has become second nature on buses and marshrutkas
#4 I have stored ice cream in the snow on my balcony.
#3 The phrase “I haven’t heard this song in forever!” comes out of my mouth at least twice a week
#2 I actually ended a phone conversation this week with “Ok, bye” click. (the abruptness with which
they end their phone conversations is ridiculous)
#1 I’m happy to hear the toilet running, because it means the water is on
Some of these may require actual experience living in a formerly soviet country to fully understand, but I would be more than happy to explain to anyone who’s curious.

So there you go. A brief glimpse into life in my world lately. I hope you enjoyed it.

Love,
Molly

Americans in Karaganda

I love the American community we have here in Karaganda. It’s a pretty decent size, but still small enough that we all know one another. And we’ve got a good mix of people, of all ages and stages of life. There are the younger teachers, my age and a bit older, who are only here for a year or two, and there are young families who are staying here indefinitely, with children ranging from 3 to 16. Then there are a few older couples who go to our church, though I don’t see them much except for church and big group functions like Christmas.

This past Sunday one of the locals whose daughter works at Friendship School (where a lot of the other Americans work) invited us all over for the last day of маслэница (mahs-leh-NEE-tsah), otherwise known as blini week. If you’ve ever had a crepe, it’s basically the same thing. Anyway, she had apparently been cooking blini for 6 days (!), so there was quite a spread, with all kinds of toppings. True to form, I dripped the blueberry filling all down my shirt, but it was totally worth it. It was delicious. It was so much fun. We were all sitting around her living room talking and laughing and just enjoying each other’s company. It is times like that that make me sad that I’m not coming back next year. I’m really going to miss these people.

Loving the Sacred Raisin Cakes

Team meetings on Friday mornings are always fun, especially because we have lunch and sit around talking for hours afterwards. But it was especially fun last Friday. Hillary was leading the study and we were talking about our relationship with God being like that of a marriage. To support this she asked someone to read Hosea 3:1 “The Lord said to me ‘Go show your love to your wife again, though she is loved by another and is an adulteress. Love her as the Lord loves the Israelites, though they turn to other gods and love the sacred raisin cakes.’”

Somehow the bit about loving the sacred raisin cakes was just too much for us. We were laughing hysterically for a good minute and it was at least five minutes before we could get back on topic. And even then all someone had to do was mention the sacred raisin cakes again, and we were gone. It was so much fun. And now I’m creating a group on facebook: English Teachers Against the Sacred Raisin Cakes. It probably sounds stupid to anyone who was not there, but we were rolling on the floor. I love our team!

American Culture

That would be the name of the class I’m teaching this semester. Since it’s a bit of a broad topic, I was thinking of turning it into something of a pop culture class. At training they gave us a list of the elements of conversation that make it difficult for non-native speakers to follow. It included things like accent and speed. It also mentioned background knowledge. There are so many things that we say that come from a common cultural knowledge that we may not even be conscious of. So, while I obviously won’t be able to cover even close to everything, I’m going to try to introduce them to a lot of things that (almost) every American knows.

I’m going to be showing movies like “The Sound of Music” and “ET” and TV shows like “I Love Lucy” and “Friends.” I might show the soup Nazi episode of “Seinfeld” if I can get my hands on it. I’m going to teach lessons on Tom Sawyer and Huck Finn, Archie comics, and Dr. Seuss. There will be a whole unit on baseball. When you really stop to think about how many of our expressions have their origins in baseball it’s unbelievable.

The problem is that, as many ideas as I’ve had, I still don’t have a whole semester’s worth. So I’m putting this out there hoping that people back home might have some good thoughts. If you do, please leave me a comment or email me. And here’s a note especially for all the teachers who might be reading this: I’m also struggling with how to keep this from becoming a lecture series. I need to find activities I can do with the students to get them involved and using their English. I am open to any and all suggestions.

Thanks!