Hospitality is a really big deal here. A really big deal. And it shows in more areas of life than you would think. A friend of ours who is pregnant still tries to give me her seat on the bus. I have to be stubborn and practically force her to sit down before she gives in. And I've lost count of the number of times I've gone to pay my bus fare on the way out only to find that one of my friends paid for me already.
Of course, there is also the more traditional form of hospitality, which translates as food, food, and more food! A guest should never have to ask for food or a drink refill. In fact, sometimes they will refuse the first time (or even the second) out of politeness, and the host is expected to offer again, even up to the point of putting food on the plate anyway. And it's not just like having a huge pot of chili on the stove with some cornbread. No- variety and choices are key as well. Once, while visiting someone's home, I found myself with three different drinks in front of me- a glass of juice, and two different kinds of tea!
A perfect example is the Turkish breakfast the school hosted for us at a restaurant. Eggs, fried sausage, cheese pastries, fried cheese, black and green olives, a refilling bread basket (with three different kinds of bread), and every conceivable topping to go on it: two kinds of butter, honey, two kinds of jam, a peanut butter-ish spread (maybe from sunflower seeds?), three different kinds of cheese, prosciutto, cucumbers, and tomato slices. Oh, and of course the never ending cup of tea. :)
| This was just my plate- and you can't even see the plate of pastries and fried cheese to the right |
| Valerie and me enjoying our Turkish breakfast |
We've tried our hand at hosting a few times. The first time, our guests called at the last minute and couldn't come, but more recently we had our vice principal and Valerie over for tea. We did our best to set out plenty of options, but it's still a weak imitation of the real thing.
Of course, there's the other end of hospitality- guests should bring a small gift (often food, but not always) to the host. On the occasion mentioned above, our guests apparently decided that giving each of us a coffee cup and a stick of deodorant was the way to go! :)
Oh, and there's also the lovely lunch ladies at our school, who will load us up with enough food for an army if we don't stop them. One of the first words we learned in Azeri was "enough"! Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't, as the following picture shows.
All we could do was laugh (and take a quick picture), and then I just split it with her rather than getting my own.
In fact, the hardest part of this hospitality is making sure we're not always on the receiving end- inviting friends over, insisting that someone else take the comfortable seat, and sometimes racing to the front of the bus to pay for our friends before they can pay for us. It's a wonderful expression of the culture here- where we've met some of the warmest, most generous people I've ever known.


