I love a country where you can celebrate the New Year three or four times a year. Thursday was the Kazakh New Year, and it was awesome. We met three of our students and they took us downtown where all the cool stuff was happening. They had blocked off the main road downtown so that people could walk there, and there were so many cool things going on. Apparently they have a competition every year to see who can build the best yurta. Yurtas are the traditional dwellings of the Kazakhs, who were nomads. So there were dozens of full-sized yurtas all the way down the street, each one erected by a different company or organization. Outside of one they were actually having a traditional Kazakh wedding ceremony, complete with dancers and musicians playing the dumbra (the national instrument). In front of the Abzal (one of the major stores downtown) they had a stage set up and there was a full Kazakh orchestra, playing all the traditional instruments. It was amazing. Cat got videos of it all.
It was just a big street carnival. Old men were wandering around in their traditional dress, and people were selling shashlik, samsa, and plof (local dishes) on the streets. Cat and I kept trying to get to see the inside of one of the yurtas, but they weren’t letting the white people in. But finally one of them figured out that we were Americans, which apparently made all the difference. They invited us in, but Mary and Taya, both Russians, had to wait outside. It was so cool! They had beautiful Persian looking rugs all over the floor and hanging from the walls, and Kazakh artifacts everywhere. There were three tables (the low kind that you kneel around) and they invited us to sit down and eat! We couldn’t stay too long, since the girls were waiting for us outside, but we had a few bites of the dish they put in front of us, and we both tried the kumis (mare’s milk) which, by the way, is absolutely disgusting. It tastes like sour milk mixed with vinegar.
That night we went to Marzhan’s apartment for dinner. She’s the only Kazakh English teacher at ASSOL, and she invited us and two other teachers with their husbands. It was the most fun evening I’ve had in a while. She made us Bes Par Mak, the national dish, which included horsemeat. It actually tasted good, but there was more of a mental block than I had expected going in. I took about three bites and then focused on the beef, noodles, and potatoes. Then we just sat around talking for hours. The conversation alternated between English, with Mila and Yana translating for their husbands, Russian, with them translating (somewhat) for us, and Cat and I trying to have a conversation with Vitaly, which is always hysterical. He speaks maybe as much English as I speak Russian (not much), but he is so expressive that we can usually figure it out. It was such a fun night.
Happy New Year!!!
С новым годом!!!
1 comment:
Ah, plov. How I miss thee.
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